Procession Isabel Marant - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

Before working out its collection autumn/winter 2010-2011, it would not be astonishing that Isabel Marant occurred in loop the DVD from Grease. With their tails of horse and their broad earrings, its mannequins indeed seem to have wanted to pay homage to semi-sparkling Sandy Olsson, but also to the culture fifties, another heroin of film of Randal Kleiser…
Procession Isabel Marant 2011
For the next winter, Isabel Marant starts a new creative cycle, where boots studées and winks 80 ' S completely disappeared. With this intention, it invites the fashionista to be melted in the universe of the Fifties (when balls of promotion, cinemas in the open air and American football constituted the sap of the period high school), so as to propose a new icon to him - the actress Olivia Newton-John - who will be able to feed her cloakroom in retro innovations.
It is true that it is enough to evoke the fifties to see at once re-appearing the tempting image of this young girl of good family to the pace in turn ingenuous and teaser. Evolving/moving of the wise twinset pastel to the flamer combination of leather, its character, in perfect adequacy with the girl Isabel Marant, carried in it what to inspire with creative the broad outlines of its future cloakroom bankable…
Procession Isabel Marant 2011
Thus Freja Beha opened the procession in skinny roulotté on ankle, wind-breaker of biker skimped and escarpins pointed. With the wire of the passages, it is all the universe of the youth of the time which was seen revisited: sporting wind-breaker on skinny, sweat borrowed from the boyfriend football player, pantacourt, leggings 7/8, jacket as a Jean diluted… anything was not forgotten.
However, if Isabel Marant is inspired largely by Sandy Olsson to work out the looks of its models, that does not prevent it therefore from affixing its own key with the whole of its Grease collection. It organizes thus its wind-breakers of student Yankee by working them in duet carbon deer/leather, exchanges the sexy long-line bras of the time for pullovers loose hardly slipped into the belt of trousers capri and attenuates the glitter of a legging by a jacket boyish oversize or a check shirt.
Procession Isabel Marant 2011
In addition, by voting by plebiscite the duet escarpins indented/length 7/8, it puts forward the sensual dimension of ankle, well too often underestimated…
One will regret nevertheless that Isabel Marant entirely did not make clean slate of the past, by preserving some gimmicks his preceding collections. The shoulder pads in Balmain indeed start to be more than dated, while the military commercial starts of certain parts curl sometimes the inconsistency.
To finish, one notes that the skinny out of leather version biker in Capri will be undoubtedly one of the must cuts next season, without speaking about the small wind-breaker round collar…

Dior procession - Autumn/winter

In spite to have been the angular stone of the last collection Dior Haute couture, equestrian art continues this season to fascinate John Galliano. However, if the topic remained the same one, the angle of incidence proves somewhat different, allowing to the Master places to affix with its rider one declads attractive, fault of being new…
Procession Dior 2011
With this collection (which it entitled “the seduction of the libertine”), the artistic director of Dior once more allows himself to develop the register of stripped the 1900. However, if it takes again the almost intrinsic laces, ribbons and other transparencies today with its style, it associates to them another of its topics of predilection: the wardrobe male of the 18th century. That thus enables him to constitute a cloakroom where the duality of the Dior woman more than was ever explored.
At the same time mischievous and sensual, dominating and delicate, the MUSE of John Galliano is moulted successively as a young stableman in jodhpur, as a courtesan in trench with Basque and suggestive combination, when it does not borrow from Gavroche its declads gouailleuse…
In practice, Galliano multiplies the variations around the leather - which wants to be either ultra boyish then, or thoroughly perforated - as well as creations in muslin draped, embroidered or interlaced wheels and laces, which often reveal a retro linen room.
Procession Dior 2011
If the creator had stopped there, the collection would probably have been considered to be disappointing, and this in spite of its extreme esthetism. It would have indeed been easy to regard it as redundant (because too near to the claw of John Galliano) and to show it to plagiarize the seam pâlement…
However, by enamelling its cloakroom of many attractive shoes and some parts of knittings impressed of languorous softness, Galliano makes it possible Dior to maintain the desire and to continue to fall under modernity.
Bathing in camaieux mahogany tree/caramel/tobacco/hazel nut, long the cuissardes semi-leather semi-deer, the low boots with the riding support and the back finely laced, the ankle boots equipped with a sheath taking again the principle of the gaiter or the boots needles more skinny that one second skin are as many models mixing with audacity spirit, tradition and seduction.
Procession Dior 2011
One notes in addition that the passion from which currently knitting profits seems to have found here an expression new and refined (but nevertheless cosy), in the shape of a full waistcoat ivory laced of broad turquoise ribbons which is likely to strongly mark the spirits.
Lastly, it seems that the twisted gaiters threaded on a pair of stiletto heels could well quickly make school on the Parisian paving stones…

Chloé procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

One owes in Hannah Mac Gibbon the emergence of the camel as “a it” color, as well as the massive passion from which currently the 70 profit ' S. But, instead of trying to preserve his statute of leader by proposing an alternative to his own tendencies, the continuous DA of Chloé to embroider around his topics of predilection. With the risk to melt itself in the mass…
Procession Chloé 2011
If it is inspired officially by the wardrobe male, the collection Chloé autumn/winter 2010-2011 seems nevertheless to expensive celebrate the American sportswear with Farrah Fawcett, Kate Jackson and Jaclyn Smith. Hannah MacGibbon indeed delivers in vain some overcoats oversize and to fit some of its mannequins of polished moccasins, it is an young woman coming straight from the seventies which allured the assistance.
In trousers cuts high and blouse of satin or out of leather cognac and lavalli2ere caramel with butter, this young lady with the inflated blow-dry is registered in the middle of this néo minimalism where the codes seventies are used as a basis for a modest pace lately hype.
Thus, as in Marc Jacobs, Prada and Celine, the Chloé woman enjoys to marry elegance casual time, when Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein set up the sportswear in art of living.
Procession Chloé 2011
With this intention, it adopts wind-breaker round collar, under-sweater in jersey, trousers flare and skirt with the knees. She also testifies to a total confidence towards camaieux of beige, rusts, ginger or copper, which plunged the public within an autumnal suave and desirable softness.
This softness was accentuated when Hannah MacGibbon called upon the one of the crushs moment, while declining some of its parts in knitting mode. It is discovered whereas, under its news less sport declads than smart, the bottom of wool jogging could make well capsize the heart of the girls…
Thereafter, the compositions of colors and matters proposed seemed exaucer the wishes stylistics of number of fashionistas present this day. Parka darkens Prince de Galles on flexible mesh like pink old overcoat on trousers camel and lines as a rough Jean proved indeed directly consumable…
Procession Chloé 2011
Yes but here is, the camel being since one moment already considered as the color, this collection has all the chances not to be also attractive more in July, when it leaves finally in shop. It is a risk to consider when one chooses to compose a cloakroom in perfect osmosis with the air of time, without him to inject innovative twist…
Hannah MacGibbon however tried well to launch new tracks by associating some details cow-boy to his parts 70 ' S. Malheureusement, fringes and cuttings rodeo do not manage to make fly. Too much foreseeable?
By consolidating the modeuses ones in a tendency of which they control the codes better and better, the major part of this cloakroom is likely to unchain passions. Let us hope just that for the next summer, Hannah MacGibbon will be able to prove to us that the Chloé woman can exist beyond the seventies…